After a frustrating 6 months, looping in circles around a seemingly reluctant to heal pulley injury, I'm just reaching the point where things are coming in to place again. After another period of rest and some slow fingerboard progression, I'm getting to the exciting point where I can think about training and pushing myself properly again.It's so easy to get in to a backwards-forwards cycle with finger injuries, especially during the problematic period when they permit you to climb, but not to your full ability. For those who enjoy pushing themselves, and have expectations of what level they expect to perform at, it can be really challenging to reign in and re-establish the perimeters of difficulty which you should be climbing within. That said, this slow progression of intensity is so important within the recovery process, and so this is a conflict which needs to be navigated one way or another.Featured in the videos, are some examples of times in which I have been recently lured astray by this very temptation to push myself at times when I probably shouldn't. Whilst success stories in themselves, I can also safely say that there were times trying these climbs where I was pushing myself beyond what was sensible, and making my finger worse as a result (spot me fiddling around with it whilst trying Chahala!). I guess we're always making compromises when trying to succeed, and perhaps in some cases getting that project done does justify the prolonging of an injury. Ultimately it all comes down to being mindful of the toll being taken on you're body and not getting carried away in the heat of the moment.It's nice now to be at a point where I can start pushing myself unhindered and get excited for lots of training and climbing in the near
"If you want to go fast, go alone.
If you want to go far, go together“
Out of all the possible answers to the eternal question, "How to climb better?“, there is one that universally works for everybody. It is a simple tip: Climb with motivated and strong(er) people.
You can spend a lifetime on your own in the best gym or outdoor climbing area, following the best training programs, eating healthy, sleeping well - but I am convinced that it can´t compare to what is possible to achieve when you share strong team spirit and motivation with a bunch of others. Don´t get me wrong, I am capable to train alone for days, I usually enjoy it and I believe that one on one training sessions with myself are generally the best option. However, at the same time I feel blessed for always having somebody to share my passion with. Regardless of whether it was with a single partner or the whole team, these people significantly shaped me as a climber and a human being. Perhaps it is good luck, but surely it is also the outcome of my instictive quest for a relationship with others.
Climbing is presented as an individual activity but this, in general, is far from reality. Isn´t it interesting that we call Bouldering the most individual way to climb, yet at the same time, we often call it the most social way to climb? Yes, we did all those moves on our own, but reaching that final performance is strongly supported with others in numerous ways.
During last winter, a team that I was working with pushed me further than I was capable to do on my own. It was a pure example of teamwork magic and it truly inspired me to write this blog. Also, in Spring I travelled to a virgin rock location to do some bolting and it was an extremely motivational trip, as I was with a strong team of people who were full of encouragement.
I am deeply gratefull for all of this.
//Photo credit Enna Peros:
#MoonTeam Athlete, Luke Brady, climbs at Kirschfels Bouldering which is located in the beautiful Palatinate region in southwestern Germany.
In the video, he climbs the routes:
- 2 Birds 1 Stone 7c+/8a
- Do You Feel How I Feel 7b
- Clockwork Orange 7b
- High Voltage 7c/+.
Earlier this year I bolted my first route on a perfect Trogir limestone. It was truly a fulfilling experience to "give life“ to an untouched line, virgin rock. In many occasions, people around me were bolting, however, my duty was mostly belaying or brushing. But, this time I was able to bolt a route and it was so much fun, though hard work at the same time. One thing I can say for sure, like in anything I guess, bolting one route does not make you an expert. You get to know the basics, but only years of experience in different lines and areas can make you a true master. After this day, I admire a lot more climbers who are using their energy and time to discover and open new lines for the whole climbing community. It is a gift which should not be forgotten or taken for granted. The best that we can do as a favour, is to help maintain these lines in the best possible condition, or in other words, to keep them clean and safe for everyone. Let´s all take it upon ourselves to take care and be responsible for these lines, as they belong to all of us.
This new line in Trogir became Pink Panther (7c), a crimpy 20m line and truly a perfect piece of rock.